(Old Edwards Inn and Spa, Highlands, NC) Six food and travel writers traveled from Atlanta to the mountain village of Highlands, NC to spend two nights at the Old Edwards Inn and Spa August 23 and 24. They came by personal invitation to experience the culinary vision and prowess of Chef Johannes Klapdohr. The German born chef came to Old Edwards at the start of 2009, bringing his farm-to-table, sustainable vision to Madison’s Restaurant and the other food venues at Old Edwards.

The event was aptly titled “Focus on Flavor” echoing Klapdohr’s mantra of getting back the true flavor of our foods by utilizing only the highest quality ingredients and preparing them in the simplest of ways to bring out the honest flavor and retain the nutrients bestowed by Mother Nature.

Upon arrival Sunday night the guests were greeted with cocktails on the rooftop terrace—but not your usual variety. These cocktails featured fresh plant-based enhancements like sassafras and pea shoots.

The party then moved into the private wine room at Old Edwards, where the writers joined several of the resort’s management members for an 8-course wine dinner for 12. Chef Johannes and Chef de Cuisine Chris Huerta nearly stole the show—not only with the unique presentation and vibrant flavors of the courses served but with their table-side personalities and their obvious passion for educating their guests about the difference quality, sustainably-sourced ingredients and proper preparation can make to the palate and the planet. Old Edwards Sommelier Curt Christiansen received numerous accolades for his perfect wine pairings with the unique dishes.

But it was the food that took center stage that night. Oohs, ahs and a sea of heads leaning simultaneously in toward dishes uncovered in unison by the attending servers characterized the evening. And then hums of delight as the ingredients and flavors revealed themselves to appreciative palates. Like Sea Urchin shells placed in dishes before each guest and then lifted all at once by servers to reveal the Sea Urchin and Lobster Custard and Life Cycle of Peas with Verbena Infused Crustacean Froth. This with a “Schupdiwup” by Chef Johannes upon the reveal, one of the many “Johannes-isms used by the German chef.

A solid silver, antique press jus (photo available) was utilized by the skilled chef in the tableside preparation of the Organic Red Eye Gravy for the Coffee Roasted Partridge with Brussels Sprouts “Surprise.”

After indulging in naturally-sweet desserts like Zephyr Squash Blossom Tempura Ginger Spiced Bing Cherrie Ragout with Micro Lemon Grass, guests left the four-hour experience fully satiated. Many voiced their surprise at not feeling overly stuffed even after eight courses, due to the unencumbered dishes prepared simply but with optimal flavor profiles. View Wine Dinner Menu.

Monday, in between kitchen tours and spa treatments, the writers found time to share some emails—many expressing doubt that the coming evenings repast could possibly surpass that of the previous night. But the end of Monday evening would tell a different story.

It all started with a hands-on kitchen demo for the writers, as they were allowed into the Chef’s kitchen—this time, inside The Barn kitchen at The Farm at Old Edwards. Afterward, the writers convened on the wraparound deck of the restored 19th century Farmhouse overlooking a serene pond to enjoy cocktails and house-made charcuterie—a specialty of the house and of Chef Huerta (see Huerta’s blog). A sumptuous and surprising variety of cured meats—some enhanced by plant-based ingredients—were lovingly displayed by Chef Huertas, who regaled guests with his intimate knowledge of the process, literally from farm to table.

Then, as twilight approached, guests made their way to the apple orchard on the grounds of “The Farm.” Twinkling firefly style white lights dangled from trees, pillar candles in clear glass sat in the grass surrounding the long farm table set with hearty, home-style settings atop burlap. And guests new they were in for a special evening.

Very shortly upon sitting, platters started circulating family style in nostalgic-looking clayware and ceramics—all reminiscent of a comfortable farm-style family dinner. Very popular was the “Tomato Salad”: Marinated Beets with Micro Caraway, Walnut Oil and Apple Cider Vinegar. “Dave Taylor’s” Summer Lettuces with Garden Vegetables reflected the Madison’s Menu item so popular to locals, the Dave Taylor House Salad. The “Sunburst Trout” and Caviar Rolls with Red Ribbon Sorrel garnished with Pea Shoots and Memo Chives made several rounds.

The guest list was a little longer for this evening’s gathering. Guests of honor included local vegetable farmers, trout providers and gristmill operators, all of who took a moment to share their stories and philosophies—echoing Chef Johannes’s passion for the symbiotic relationship between nature and the foods with which we nurture our bodies. Special guest to the occasion was Farmer Lee Jones who flew in for the event from Chef’s Garden in Ohio, where Chef Johannes spent time before moving to North Carolina to share his special knowledge and vision.

Wine was poured, dishes were passed, servers in farm-style clothes and “wellies” made multiple trips from farmhouse kitchen to table, refilling, replenishing and—even themselves—appearing to relax and enjoy. And the evening flowed.

As did the food. If Sunday’s Wine dinner was eight courses, this one must have been 16—but who’s counting when you’re in a candlelit orchard under the stars enjoying nature’s bounty. Cauliflower Variation Roasted with Sunflower Seeds and Lovage, Garden Vegetable Cassoulet with Summer Savory and Bacon. It was as if a garden had sprouted up around the table and all the colorful, tasty vegetables had invited themselves to the dinner party. Even the dessert sprung right from Mother Nature—and the sweetness was just the right amount to satisfy but from natural sources that didn’t send blood sugar levels souring. White Carrot Crème Brûlée, Orchard Apple and Pears Baked in Clay, and Beet Lollipops with Spices and Chocolate Soil. Yes, Beet Lollipops. And they were good.
View full Farm Dinner Menu.

Amazing the power of such a setting to bring people out of their shell (if food writers have a shell), have them waxing philosophical, and making palpable our innate connection to nature. At the evening’s end, after relishing the last vestiges of conversation with sips of richly roasted coffee, guests reluctantly made their way up from the table. Hugs were shared and promises were made to keep in touch and carry the message.

Tuesday morning’s emails were gushes of appreciation, admiration and promises not to forget the messages that Chefs Johannes and Chris, Farmer Lee, Farmer Dave Taylor and the entire experience left them with. It was back to Atlanta for the writers, with—as reported through Tuesday morning’s emails—a truly inspired experience, an entirely new way of thinking about food, and a commitment to fully understand and embrace the natural and sustainable natural methods of sourcing, preparing, enjoying and appreciating the beauty and bounty that surround us—if we only take time to pay attention.

And Chef Johannes’ take on the two evenings? “We had the best time and it is wonderful to know that schmackofatz food, exquisite wine, great company and a little roof over your head is really all you need to live life graciously. For a chef it is always rewarding to be able to cook for people that truly appreciate the craft, artistry and of course the awesome products that we featured for this special event.”

View Johannes Klapdohr’s Bio